French Leave Hardcover - 2004

Excerpt

FRENCH ONION SOUP
This is a classic dish that typifies French regional cooking, although it is done badly in many restaurants – done well though, it is delicious.

Serves 6-8

2 tablespoons vegetable oil
30g unsalted butter
1Kg onions (e.g. red and Spanish), peeled and finely sliced
2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely sliced
30g smoked bacon or bacon bone
100ml Cognac
100ml dry white wine
30g plain flour
1.5 litres chicken stock
salt and pepper

CHEESE AND GARLIC CROÛTONS
18-24 slices, about 1cm thick, from a baquette
3 teaspoons olive oil
1 garlic clove, peeled
30g each of Emmental and Parmesan cheese, finely grated

1. First prepare the croûtons. Place the slices of bread on a baking sheet, sprinkle with half the olive oil and grill them on one side until golden brown. Turn them over and repeat the process. Make several incisions in the garlic with a kitchen knife and rub each croûton on both sides with the garlic. Set aside.

2. Place a large, thick-bottomed pan on the stove and turn the heat up high. When the pan is very hot, add the vegetable oil, which will immediately start to smoke, then the butter. Add the sliced onion, garlic and bacon. Cook over a medium heat for about 15 minutes until the onions are soft and golden brown.

3. Add the Cognac and set fire to it until all the alcohol has burned off, then pour in the wine and reduce the liquid by about half, stirring constantly. Stir in the flour, then pour in the chicken stock. Bring to the boil, skimming off any scum that rises to the surface. Turn down the heat and simmer for about half an hour.

4. To finish making the croûtons, sprinkle the cheese on top and place under a hot grill until the cheese melts and starts to brown.


SIMPLE CHOCOLATE TRUFFLES
This recipe is for simple, plain chocolate truffles. Adding something to flavour the chocolate – Cognac, say, or even tea – makes an interesting alternative.

Serves 8

400g good-quality dark chocolate (at least 75% cocoa solids)
20g clear honey
25g unsalted butter, diced
200ml double cream

COATING
Icing sugar, cocoa powder or chopped toasted nuts

1. Chop up the chocolate as finely as possible and place 250g of it in a mixing bowl. Add the honey and diced butter. Pour the cream into a saucepan, bring it to the boil on the stove, then pour it over the chocolate. Whisk until the chocolate has completely melted and the mixed is smooth. Leave to cool.

2. If your prefer to pipe the truffles, you must do so when the chocolate is still fluid. Line a baking sheet with greaseproof paper, then half fill a piping bag fitted with a 2cm nozzle with the truffle mixture. Carefully pipe onto the baking sheet truffles each the size of a large marble. Alternatively, when the truffle mixture is just made pour it into a glass bowl and put it into the refrigerator to set. With a parisienne scoup or melon baller, scoup out the truffles onto a baking sheet.

3. Put the remaining chocolate into a bowl and gently melt over a saucepan of hot water just below the boil, then remove from the heat. Coat the truffles in the melted chocolate, lifting them out with a fork. Then place back on the baking sheet and refrigerate to set. Coat the truffles a second time, refrigerate to set, then roll them in either icing sugar, cocoa powder or chopped nuts. Keep in refrigerator.


ALIGOT
This dish originated in the Auvergne, but everyone in the Arde region eats it too. Some people prefer it without the garlic. It can be served on its own, with a salad, or as an accompaniment to grilled fish or meat. I serve it with sausages and tasty onion gravy known as Sauce Lyonnaise.

Serves 8

2.5Kg floury potatoes (e.g. King Edward or Cara)
2 garlic cloves, peeled
250ml double cream
100g unsalted butter
750g cheese (Cantal or Lagiole is best), grated
salt and pepper

1. Peel and wash the potatoes, then boil with the garlic until tender.

2. When cooked, strain and mash the potatoes and garlic, and return the pan to the stove over a very low heat.

3. Add the cream, then the butter, and mix well. When the butter has melted, stir in the cheese. Work the mixture until the cheese has blended with the potatoes.

4. Season to taste and serve immediately.

Media reviews

"A delicious read...this book will help you bring a touch of France to your table" -- Heat

"... a gastronomic voyage. Besides musing on French and family life, this hardback is laced with classic French recipes." -- Time Out

"It's like the Waltons in the Aude -- one of those warm-feeling families that you want to be part of" -- France Magazine

"the must have cookery book for 2003" -- Good Book guide

"This autumn's must see lifestyle-envy is French Leave on Channel 4. It follows chef John Burton-Race, who gave up collecting Michelin stars in England to live with his wife and six children in the Aude region in France. With recipes such as truffled scrambled eggs, pears in honey and thyme and '3000 calories a smell' aligot, you'll pick up the book of the series for its beautiful photographs, but you'll read it for the infecious tales of family life in France." -- Red