Cookery Course: Bk. 4: Appetizers, salads, etc.

Cookery Course: Bk. 4 by Robert Carrier


Publisher: Sphere Books (1976)ISBN-10: 0722121636
ISBN-13: 97807221216344.2 x 7 inches, 256 pages

Robert Carrier McMahon (November 10, 1923 – June 27, 2006), usually known as Robert Carrier, was an American chef, restaurateur and cookery writer. His success came in England, where he was based from 1953 to 1984, and then from 1994 until his death.

Robert Carrier McMahon was born in Tarrytown, New York, the third son of a wealthy property lawyer father of Irish descent; his mother was the Franco-German daughter of a millionaire. After his parents went bankrupt in the 1930s Great Depression, they maintained their lifestyle by firing their servants and preparing their own elaborate dinner parties.

Educated in New York City, Robert took part-time art courses and trained to become an actor. He had a part in the Broadway revue New Faces, before touring Europe with a rep company, singing the juvenile lead in American musicals. After returning to America, Robert often stayed at weekends with his beloved French grandmother in upstate New York. She taught him to cook, making biscuits and butter-frying fish caught in a nearby stream.

In 1957 Carrier wrote his first article on food, which he sold to Harper's Bazaar editor Eileen Dickson. He was soon writing regularly for the magazine before becoming a contributor to Vogue and then writing a weekly column for the colour supplement of the Sunday Times. This column brought him celebrity; the articles were collected and expanded to create his first cookery book, the lavishly illustrated Great Dishes of the World, in 1963. Although priced at 70/-, the present day equivalent of around £100, it sold 11 million copies.

Assured of publicity, Carrier opened the eponymous restaurant Carrier's in 1966 in Camden Passage, Islington, then developed an international chain of cookshops, with the first in Harrods in 1967. His recipes were printed on wipe-clean cards (a convenient innovation), and were more specific in their quantities and directions than some of those of his competitor Elizabeth David; they made it feasible for an amateur to prepare food that would satisfy the eye and palate of even demanding dinner guests.

In 1971, he saw a full-page advertisement in Country Life for Hintlesham Hall near Ipswich, Suffolk and bought it, unsurveyed, for £32,000. He planned to renovate it slowly as a country retreat but, realising its vulnerability and near dereliction with rotten floors and ceilings, he decided to save it all immediately. He employed 60 people to restore the house and opened it as a hotel and restaurant in August 1972. He also revived the Hintlesham Festival.

A few years later, Carrier met a woman who lived near his Paris apartment. He thought her a remarkable cook but a poor businesswoman; so, when she got into financial difficulties over non-payment of tax, he offered to set her up as a cookery teacher at Hintlesham if she would learn to speak English. He invested about £300,000 converting the 16th-century outbuildings into a modern school. The school had a double auditorium and two classrooms, each with 12 cooking stations. The woman never learned English so he ran the school himself. He presented beginners' and intermediate courses. The mornings were devoted to generic cooking skills and, in the afternoons, students cooked recipes from the Hintlesham Hall restaurant menu. The school attracted people from throughout the anglophone world, but Carrier was disappointed to find that many were attracted more by his celebrity than by an interest in cookery. He found the repetitive work of teaching onerous and dull.

In the late 1970s, Carrier began presenting a television series, Carrier's Kitchen, based on the cooking cards from his Sunday Times articles. After the more traditional British fare often presented by British TV cooking programme host Fanny Cradock in her black and white shows, Carrier in colour television format introduced British TV viewers to a more exotic range of Continental cooking. With a highly theatrical and camp style, and "a penchant for superlatives ("Gooorgeous… Adooorable… Faaabulous!"), he "attracted viewers as much for his drawling American vowels and shameless self-promotion". His later followed this with three other series, titled Food, Wine and Friends, The Gourmet Vegetarian and Carrier's Caribbean. From this greater publicity flowed a substantial magazine published weekly by Marshall Cavendish between 1981 and 1983.